This is page 3 of 4. "File Size" begins here.

You can see by the picture below, which is worked at those dimensions and enlarged to the equivalent of 8”X10”. It looks quite different than the second picture which is enlarged to the size that looks good. 24”X30”.

In the first cropping (Cropped out of an 8”X10”) you can somewhat see the brush strokes but you cannot see the texture of the canvas background. To me it is unacceptable.

In the second (Cropped out of a 24”X30”) you can clearly see both the intended paint strokes and the canvas texture. This makes for a beautiful rendition at 24"X30" but marginal, at best, when printed 8"X10".

The screen shows I was working at 100% of the finish size. What the screen doesn't tell you is the print size will have to be 24"X30", not 8"X10" in order to get the desired affect. To get a great 8"X10" I have to change the dimensions of my file.

The numbers get confusing so please go by the calculations I show you rather than depending upon the on screen numbers. Over time you will develop your own system. Let's set up for an 8"X10" print.

I have found the best way for me to track what the end result will look like is by zooming the picture to what ever size it will be printed and work at that size on the screen.

In order for this to work right I have to change the dimensions of the file. My camera shoots at 300 P.P.I. making the file dimensions about 3872 Pixels wide X 2592 Pixels High. This was the problem in the pictures above if I plan to print at 8"X10."

I use 100 P.P.I. for my file dimensions. 100 P.P.I. is the minimum I trust in order to get good results when I print a picture. Plus 100 is a good round number. It is easy to work with.

So, I change the file dimensions...

from 300 P.P.I. to 100 P.P.I. That means I will multiply the size of my finish print (In this case 8"X10") by 100 and that is the file dimensions I will use.

Find Microsoft's Image Resizer here. On that page is it left of center and down a short way. It's a free program. Just follow the instructions.

Example: I want an 8”X10” print. That means I will change my file size from the original 3872 Pixels wide X 2592 Pixels High, to 1000 Pixels by 800 pixels, or there abouts. It doesn’t have to be exact.

There are programs on the market that can make the change for you. I use Microsoft, Power Toys, Image Resizer. It is free and available by googling it. If you choose Image Resizer, once it is installed, it works like this.

Right click on any thumbnail. In the drop down box click "Resize Pictures."

In the next drop down box, when you are going to use 100 P.P.I. it becomes pretty easy to figure out which to use for what size print. They don’t match pixel for pixel in size but they are close.

It can be done one of two ways. All you have to do is click on the small, medium or large dot for 4”X6”, 5”X7” or 8”X10." In our case, Large, for an 8"X10" print. This is the easy, one click process.

Or you may choose consistency by doing all sizes like the larger ones have to be done. For anything larger than 8”X10”, including 8"X12". Click “advanced”, then “custom”. Now multiply your print size by 100 and fill in the blanks for width and height.

Width is first, then height. In the example below the size I am going for is 16”X20”. Because width is always first, which number you put in the first box depends on whether you are using a “Landscape” (horizontal) or a “Portrait” (vertical) picture.

Finish reading the page here.