This is page 2 of 7. "Nighttime Scene" begins here.

For the purposes of this project you will continue by making the picture a little darker than normal and typically it will require more contrast. How much of each will come with experience.

1) Increase the contrast rather drastically.



2) Then; using the “Darken Highlights” slide bar, click and drag it to the right.



3) Now click on the little black check mark to commit to the settings.



4) Color at night is subdued. Set the saturation down and commit. Do not make the picture black and white, leave some color.














Getting the right amount of saturation is kind of tricky. Lowering the saturation will ultimately result in a very dark night while causing the subject to stand out quite nicely. You can have a pitch black night if you choose. I normally leave just a little light in the sky.

Also, the water turns black. If you want some surface reflections to show you’ll have to adjust the saturation after we merge layers. You will know when that is; because I will direct you at that time.

If you’ve already adjusted the saturation but want surface reflections; hold the “Control” key on your keyboard and click the letter “z.” This will undo the saturation change you just did.

When you’re done with these Quick Fix changes, the picture should look like the next one. It should be unappealingly dark with flat colors. It won’t be black like the one above because we have a couple more steps before we arrive there.

Now save this picture. Be sure to name it differently than the first two you saved; otherwise it will replace the picture with the same name and you will lose that one.

I simply extend the existing file name with a single letter like “a.” If you like; you can extend it with something appropriate so you will recognize what the picture is by looking at that extension.

“Qf” for QuickFix would work. As an example the original DSC0024.jpg would become DSC0024Cr.jpg on the cropped one you saved a while ago. Now it would become DSC0024CrQf.jpg, representing “Cropped” and “Quick Fixed.” Of course this is just one idea. Use whatever system works best for you.

Return to Full Edit.

1) You may want to rename this layer in the layers bin.

I find that appropriate names make it easiest to keep track when I have a bunch of layers in there. To rename the layer, right click on the layer. A menu including an option to rename it will pop up.
2) Duplicate the new Quick Fix layer. Drag and drop it on the “Create a New Layer” icon above the layers bin.

Leave the locked background layer turned off. Eye on means layer on; eye off means layer off. Now you have two identical Quick Fix layers plus the original locked Background layer.
3) The Quick Fix Copy layer that you just created will be highlighted blue. If not, click on it to highlight it. Then click on the inverted arrow in the box at the top of the Layers Bin that says “Normal.”

It opens up this drop down menu. Now click on “Linear Burn”; near the top.

The picture in your main editor window will look something like one of the two on the right in the next picture. It will not be exact because there are so many variables involved. From the original washed out picture; it can range anywhere from the center to the right picture.

If the result is darker or lighter than you want; simply hold the “Control” key and click the letter “z”. This will undo the Linear Burn. Undo a couple more steps the same way and then redo it with different settings in Quick Fixes and Linear Burn until you like the end result.

The lightest burned pictures [as center above] will result by doing a linear burn from the cropped but unaltered original. You’ll get the darkest by doing the extra contrast and darkening quick fixes, then Linear Burn and finally apply the “Old Paper” effect from the Artwork and Effects column to the right. It’s near the bottom.

On the right; slide the slide bar down to the bottom. You’ll see Old Paper third from the bottom on the left. Click on it and then click “Apply.” Here is an example of a regular picture done in “Old Paper.”

You can see the wrinkled effect.

Here are three examples of how dark the picture can get by applying the “Old Paper” effect to a photo that has Linear Burn.

The first of the three is the only one showing the wrinkles because it is light enough to show the effect. In the other two the Old Paper effect makes the sky and water black out. But it also makes the Tall Ship stand out and gives it that Sepia look.

The first one had the Old Paper effect applied to a lighter rendition. The others were progressively darker. Here they may look too dark, but remember we have not added the moon, clouds, fog and/or stars yet. Those will add life to even the blackest picture.

If you see something like this, you applied the Old Paper to the wrong layer.

At any time, by simultaneously clicking “Control” and “z” you can undo up to about 25 changes that you have made. They will undo one at a time. To this point, on this photo, you probably haven’t made that many changes. You could undo all of the changes up to now.

If you find that you liked it better before the “undo”, hold the Control key and click the letter “y.” That will bring back the change that you just undid.

















Continue here.